MEHRUNISA

A single row of emerald-cut stones runs the whole collar, each one boxed in worked gold, so the light breaks off them in clean straight lines rather than scattered sparkle. A teardrop hangs at the centre front. This is the most regal of the group, closer to a collar than a choker.

All gold, no colour, which is what makes it read like proper bridal jewellery, the sort worn on the main day rather than a side event. It comes with a matching tikka and earrings. Against ivory or gold it stays understated. Against a deep jewel tone it is a statement. Handcrafted and kundan-style, built to be the centre of the look.